Chasing Panama

Gulf of Chiriquí

On Saturday, we took a day trip away from Boquete to the Gulf of Chiriquí. Our friend Milagros got a group together. It has been on our list of places to visit, and we really had a blast.

We drove into David to meet everyone in the group, then traveled about an hour until we reached Boca Chica. The boat launch was a short walk. It was quite the adventure just getting in and out of the boat. We spent about an hour tooling around in the gulf until we reached an area known to have whales, and were not disappointed.

We boated to one of the small islands in the Gulf of Chiriquí that had gorgeous light sand. There were other boats there as well that brought people over to the island to enjoy. The island itself is a nature preserve. It was completely unspoiled. We enjoyed lunch on the island with our new friends. Although we packed sandwiches and snacks, there was plenty of Panamanian food to go around, which the others happily shared with us. Among them was a dish referred to as “mono” which means monkey in Spanish. I looked like a tamale, however these banana-leaf wrapped yummies consisted of chicken, rice, beans and plantain. It was delicious. We learned the name comes from when workers used to take these meals out in the fields or jungles to work and they would hang them from trees, as a monkey would hang.

We spent a few hours enjoying the scenery and the water. The boat came back after a few hours to pick us all up and we drove a short distance to another beautiful island. After a short while, the captain was ready to head back.

I feel so blessed to have the chance to explore such beautiful places in Panamá, just a short drive away.

News Today in the US

We woke up this morning to the news of not one but two more mass shootings in the USA. We have been living in Panamá for the past three months and although I do check the news daily we had become a bit insulated from the day to day happenings in our home country…until this morning when we heard about the tragic shootings in El Paso and Dayton. It was heart wrenching. We wonder if things will ever change or if this is really the new normal. It seems like there is something dark growing in the heart of our country to make people hate one another so much and for no good reason. Is this the best we can do?

If we as a country don’t find a way to seek some common ground and work together on solutions and to making things better Nancy and I fear for the future. And now we grieve for the victims…

All for now.

Saludos, Craig

We have our E-Cédulas!

The final step in our process had been completed. We had instructed our attorney in Panama City via power of attorney to pick our e-cédulas up and courier them to us. This card is an official government issued ID, similar to a social security card. Without a cédula, anything you do from getting a bank account, electricity, buying land, or even registering your car is done using your passport number. Unfortunately, every time you renew your passport you get a new passport number as well. Changing the passport number you have associated with almost everything in Panama is a nightmare and takes time. You don’t need to haul your passport around anymore. Just show your cédula. It entitles you to all the benefits of a Panama citizen, except voting.

Some Beach Time

We just got back from a short getaway to Las Lajas Beach. It was our first overnight trip since arriving almost 3 months ago. It was an easy 1.75 hour drive from Boquete. The ocean there is a bit calmer on that spot of the Pacific Ocean. There are other beaches that are closer, however swimming can be dangerous. Las Lajas reminds us of the beach on the TV show “Lost”. We walked quite a ways westward, enjoying nature’s splendor, until we reached the estuary of Río San Juan. We also walked on a boardwalk through a mangrove jungle and saw different species of mangroves and wildlife who call the habitat their home.

Weather

The weather here had been mostly dry of late, even though we are in the rainy season. It is considered winter now but we are having Indian summer, and it has been very pleasant. In Boquete about 114 inches of rain fall per year; rainfall exceeds 12 inches per month from May to November, while it drops below 4 inches per month from January to March. At altitudes above 6,500 feet, in the tierras frías (“cold lands”), nights can be cold, especially during the period from December to March. Above 10,000 feet, it can get cold even during the day. Where we live is around 3,900 feet or so above sea level. The temperature is perfect.

I cannot believe sometimes that we actually live here in this small piece of paradise. Hasta la próxima vez!

Pipeline Trail Hike

Today Craig and I went on one of the very popular hikes just outside the town of Boquete. Along with half a dozen or so other hikers, we took the trail along The Pipeline. You walk alongside a river through the jungle, as It winds through the cloud forest and passes through two micro-climates. It has various small wildlife, and is one of the best areas for the chance to see the very beautiful and colorful Quetzal. Although we did not see a quetzal today, another group on the trail who had a professional guide, did in fact see one. We learned that mating season between February and May is the best time to see them. We found the hike fairly easy, many of the others in our group being a bit older than us. The incline was gradual but a bit rocky. Since I broke my foot last December, I am very careful where I step, and watching where I step was first and foremost. There were some “iffy” bridges and water crossings, one being walking along wide metal pipes while holding on to a rail made of a branch. We did not make it all the way up to the waterfall today, but we shall return! The highlight of our hike was seeing a Glasswing butterfly, which has clear transparent wings, as well as the thousand-year-old tree. I was in awe of it. It was a great bunch of people hiking in easy pace enjoying the beauty that surrounded us.

There are various other trails, some easy and some that require a guide with steep terrain. We bumped into a guide along the way who does a Jeep 4×4 excursion to Volcán Barú, leaving at 3:45 AM, driving up 2 hours to see the sun rise, then 2 hours back down. I’m putting that one on my bucket list.

*Craig thought the bridge was for sissies, lol.*

Thoughts On Life In Panamá (so far)

We’ve been living in the mountains on Panamá for two and a half months now and we’re still adjusting. I don’t think we expected the emotional changes we would be going through. Missing the old routines, missing the old house, cars, even missing the old jobs. Most of all missing family and friends that we haven’t seen and have limited contact with. It all takes far more getting used to and adjusting than we expected. Every day that goes by it does get a bit easier, but its been difficult. We’ll be back in the states for a visit in a couple of months and we are really looking forward to seeing friends and family.
Panamá, despite all the gringos in our current neck of the woods, is a different country, with a different language, and culture. Just driving a car is challenging because of the way people drive here. Its much more of an “every man for himself” mindset once you get behind the wheel. The food here has different flavors, even the eggs and milk. Not bad at all, but not the same. Most of the usual brands are available in the food stores, but you generally have to hunt for them. The milk is not refrigerated, and neither are the eggs. The milk is triple pasteurized so it keeps for a long time without refrigeration, and the eggs are not washed which apparently makes it far less likely that they will be spoiled by bacteria. (There are a lot of indigenous people living in this area that do not have refrigerators.) We have no inside hot water heater – an outside propane tank provides gas for hot water and cooking. When the tank is empty you take it almost anywhere and trade it in for a full one at a cost of under $6, which is enough for a month plus for just the two of us. Despite our best efforts at learning Spanish we still have a long way to go. Its possible to get by without speaking a lot of Spanish, but its going to be much easier for us once we’re at least functional speaking the language. The government bureaucracy here functions differently. Its not necessarily better or worse, but definitely different. Things take longer and there is far more waiting in government offices (some new buildings, most not so new). Patience is a required skill here. Its normal to wait in line just to get into a bank (usually past an armed security guard). In Panamá “mañana” doesn’t necessarily mean tomorrow but it definitely means “not today”. (“When will the car be fixed? I really need it!” “Don’t worry señor. It will be ready mañana.”) We were living here for a couple of weeks mostly without internet before we figured out that rebooting the router will normally bring it back. The public water system mostly consists of white PVC pipes, some buried, some not. The water runs for a few hours per day with virtually zero water pressure. We have a couple of large tanks that fill up overnight and a pump that pumps the water into the house on demand. The electricity is fairly reliable but it will flicker on and off at least a couple of times a day. Our online life got a lot better once we got a battery back up for the router. We call it the “trifecta”: water, internet, and electricity all working simultaneously.
The more time we have invested in our lives here, the better it seems to get. We have made some very good friends both Panamanian, and not. The country is spectacular and hiking can be really great (and a reminder of how out of shape we are…). There are plenty things to do and friends to hang out with.
We just have to hang in there!

Saludos, Craig

Panamá City Visit

This week we spent a few days in Panamá City. We flew from David to Panamá City to complete our e-cédulas. David, the 3rd largest city in Panamá, is a 35 minute drive from Boquete. The flight is approximately 45 minutes, a real time saver and relatively inexpensive with a 20% jubilado discount. The drive would take you around 7 hours.

The e-cédula is an optional form of identification that provides an unique ID number which becomes the official proof of identity in Panamá. Permanent residents are not required to obtain the e-cédula; however, it is highly recommended. This is because the e-cédula card is an accepted proof of identity anywhere in Panamá, while the permanent residency card requires foreigners to carry their passport as a proof of ID. All Panamanians over the age of 18 are issued a cédula. The only difference between the cédula issued to those who are born in Panamá and those who become permanent residents, is the “e” on the card’s ID number, which stands for extranjero – foreigner in Spanish.

When you have an e-cédula card, you can do your day-to-day tasks more easily – whether it be cashing your checks or paying for public transport. When in Panamá, an e-cédula card is all you need to carry. See full article about important Panamá IDs (from our attorneys website), at https://kraemerlaw.com/en/articles/important-panama-ids-residency-card-e-cedula-drivers-license/

It’s not necessary for an attorney to accompany you, however we did have our bilingual driver/tour guide extraordinaire, Marc Vargas, drive us to the Tribunal Electoral in Albrook, Panamá City, and he helped us with any translation issues. After our files were reviewed, we paid the fee of $32.50 each (normally $65.00 but we get a 50% jubilado discount), then got our photos taken and also fingerprinted. In a week our e-cédulas will be mailed to us. Everything was done in less than 3 hours, which left us some time to explore which is always very enjoyable. This completes our process!

We are back home in Boquete, until our next adventure.

Today is Independence Day in the US, home of the free because of the brave. I remain grateful for our many freedoms in both my mother land and my newly adopted home of Panamá. Happy Independence Day!

Adjusting to a Less Stressful Life

I’ve not written in a while. It seems there has not been much to say of late. Life has become so simplistic.

Today, Craig and I attended a Meet & Greet cocktail / luncheon that was held at a local restaurant. Newcomers to the area as well as expats who have been here a while, met to share their friendship and knowledge. We talked with a lot of great people who we plan on getting together with in the future.

Having been retired now for half a year and Craig retired for over 2 months, we are slowly settling in. When we first arrived in Boquete, Panama in early May, it felt like “vacation mode”, checking out the town, the sights, tours, getting to know the local hangouts. Finding a rental and getting a car was a priority, as was getting our Panamanian drivers licenses. Having been used to the hustle and bustle of every day life in the United States, it has been quite an adjustment mentally. I wake up in the morning without an agenda, leisurely enjoying the wonderful Panamanian coffee we have here, and catching up with my emails and Facebook. An afternoon out entails going to the fruit and vegetable lady and stocking up, grocery store, and maybe stopping for a cocktail. This week we had a friend over for dinner. Filling out our time are video Spanish lessons with teacher and friend, Yaira Munoz; oh, and homework! Going for long walks and going to the gym are things we also like to do. We’ve been re-watching The Sopranos many evenings. There is only so much relaxing that one can do, though. What else is out there? At times I miss the creative part of my former occupation as a graphic designer, but not the sitting behind a desk for 8 hours a day. It wreaked havoc on my shoulders, elbows, wrists, neck and back, I no longer have those issues.

There has been an inner struggle from time to time, looking for that missing piece, and missing family back in the States. The transition has been challenging. I am so grateful to be able to make this journey with my husband and best friend. Retirement is not a destination, but a journey. I do not know what my missing piece is yet, but it cannot be rushed. For some people, the need to work after retirement becomes a necessity, for others, it provides structure, routine and purpose. I do not know where I fall in the grand scheme of things. Waking up in this beautiful country with breathtaking views of Baru and the surrounding mountains, I have to count my blessings every day. We’re starting to get into the rhythm of life without structure, life has become more of an improvisation. We look forward to what the future holds and thank God every day for our good health and for this opportunity and fresh chance at a new adventure.

Panamá Coffee

One of the highlights of living in the mountains of Volcán Barú is the coffee. It is one of life’s greatest pleasures. Panamá coffee will not disappoint. It’s the best I’ve ever had. This past week, we toured one of the local coffee farms, Finca Dos Jefes. Their coffee varieties, Cafés de la Luna, is grown, harvested, processed and roasted there. Their farming practices are based around the lunar calendar. It was very interesting indeed. It all starts off as a cherry on a tree.

Here are some of the facts I’ve learned about the subject. The simplest and most organic method of processing coffee is called dry process. … The coffee is laid on raised drying beds that allow air to circulate around the fruit. Another method is the washing process, which if not done ethically, can potentially damage the environment and water resources around it. Environmental regulations are not equally enforced, or do not exist at most coffee producing nations.

What makes Panamá coffee so good? The fertile conditions on the areas surrounding the Volcán Barú, regular rainfall and appropriate altitude are a key factor in the success of coffee production: The rich nutrients found in the volcanic soil, abundant moisture and cloud cover nourish the coffee plants producing high quality beans that develop a rich, deeper flavor. The environmental factors of Panamá is quite unique with mountainous regions and nutrient rich volcanic soil that together create numerous microclimates across the country. The winds blowing over the mountains from the north create a fine mist called bajareque that acts as a huge air conditioner slowing the ripening of coffee cherries and contributing, ultimately, to sweet and complex cups.

Panamá’s coffee industry is marginal, but the country has specialized in producing special coffees such as geisha, which is sold at record prices especially in Asia and Europe. Just recently, A U.S. coffee roasting company in San Francisco area, served up the pricey cups of coffee made from Elida Natural Geisha beans purchased in Panamá at a world record price of $803 per pound.

We’ve had the opportunity to taste coffee samplings from a handful of fincas. The jury is still out as we continue our Panamá coffee tastings, including Black Mountain and Kotowa. They are all so good!

Taking Everything In

Arriving in Boquete a little over 3 weeks ago, we are slowly getting acclimated to our new home. It has been quite an adjustment to say the least. Having arrived at the start of the rainy season, you can expect a bit of rain every day, some days can downpour for hours, other days just a short period or two. Everything is lush and green, the flowers really love it!

This week, my daughter Jess gave birth to a beautiful baby girl, Stella Louise. What a joyous occasion! It was difficult for me not being able to be there and share in their joy. Thank goodness for Skype and Google Hangouts, the next best thing to being there, until we can make a trip back to visit.

Our days are filled with taking walks, going into town to pick up groceries and necessities, having snacks and a cerveza or margarita at our new favorite bar & grill, Big Daddy’s, Spanish lessons, and relaxing. We also joined a local gym that has a pool, hot tub and saunas.

Every Tuesday we go to the Boquete Tuesday Market. It has a good selection of items including an assortment of food, medicinal items, fresh fruit and vegetables, souvenirs, and Panamanian handmade items. All the expats in the area seem to congregate there every week.

One cannot underestimate how much we rely on the basic necessities, such as water, electricity, and internet. It is pretty common for one of these 3 things to be out at any given time. I think this is our biggest adjustment. We have two water reserve tanks for when the city water goes out, but when the reserve tanks are low, water pressure is slim to none, and at times doesn’t give us enough hot water. We get our showers when the getting is good. Electricity can flicker on and off. We have not had any major disruptions thankfully. We have a propane tank for our hot water and cooking. We have figured out when to return the tank for a new one…an empty tank weighs 6.17 kilos. We have been using our luggage scale to weigh it so we don’t run out! The internet is another story. The first week or so that we were here, it went out at least 3 times a day, which made our VPN router get all messed up with numerous calls to Sabai Technology for technical support. This week we’ll drive into David and get a UPS battery backup for our electronics to hopefully lessen future issues.

We are getting to know our community and some locals. Everyone has been so welcoming. Hasta la próxima vez!

Earthquake 12.5.19

Nancy and I were in the house around 2:30pm last Sunday; Nancy was sitting at the counter and I was standing in the kitchen with a beer in my hand when the earthquake started. The shaking started slowly and gradually increased in intensity. At first I thought a huge gust of wind was shaking the whole house but then Nancy shouted “Earthquake!!” and “What do we do?!? Quick! Stand in a doorway!!” I just stood there just thinking “Wow – welcome to Panamà…” as the shaking slowly changed to rolling; it almost felt like we we’re on a ship. A unique sensation. Then after maybe twenty or thirty seconds it was over. Apparently some nearby towns like Puerto Armuelles had stuff flying off shelves, buildings getting damaged, and a couple of injuries. So for Nancy and I this was a new experience. For others, maybe not so much…

Saludos, Craig