Nancy, Author at Chasing Panama

Gulf of Chiriquí

On Saturday, we took a day trip away from Boquete to the Gulf of Chiriquí. Our friend Milagros got a group together. It has been on our list of places to visit, and we really had a blast.

We drove into David to meet everyone in the group, then traveled about an hour until we reached Boca Chica. The boat launch was a short walk. It was quite the adventure just getting in and out of the boat. We spent about an hour tooling around in the gulf until we reached an area known to have whales, and were not disappointed.

We boated to one of the small islands in the Gulf of Chiriquí that had gorgeous light sand. There were other boats there as well that brought people over to the island to enjoy. The island itself is a nature preserve. It was completely unspoiled. We enjoyed lunch on the island with our new friends. Although we packed sandwiches and snacks, there was plenty of Panamanian food to go around, which the others happily shared with us. Among them was a dish referred to as “mono” which means monkey in Spanish. I looked like a tamale, however these banana-leaf wrapped yummies consisted of chicken, rice, beans and plantain. It was delicious. We learned the name comes from when workers used to take these meals out in the fields or jungles to work and they would hang them from trees, as a monkey would hang.

We spent a few hours enjoying the scenery and the water. The boat came back after a few hours to pick us all up and we drove a short distance to another beautiful island. After a short while, the captain was ready to head back.

I feel so blessed to have the chance to explore such beautiful places in Panamá, just a short drive away.

We have our E-Cédulas!

The final step in our process had been completed. We had instructed our attorney in Panama City via power of attorney to pick our e-cédulas up and courier them to us. This card is an official government issued ID, similar to a social security card. Without a cédula, anything you do from getting a bank account, electricity, buying land, or even registering your car is done using your passport number. Unfortunately, every time you renew your passport you get a new passport number as well. Changing the passport number you have associated with almost everything in Panama is a nightmare and takes time. You don’t need to haul your passport around anymore. Just show your cédula. It entitles you to all the benefits of a Panama citizen, except voting.

Some Beach Time

We just got back from a short getaway to Las Lajas Beach. It was our first overnight trip since arriving almost 3 months ago. It was an easy 1.75 hour drive from Boquete. The ocean there is a bit calmer on that spot of the Pacific Ocean. There are other beaches that are closer, however swimming can be dangerous. Las Lajas reminds us of the beach on the TV show “Lost”. We walked quite a ways westward, enjoying nature’s splendor, until we reached the estuary of Río San Juan. We also walked on a boardwalk through a mangrove jungle and saw different species of mangroves and wildlife who call the habitat their home.

Weather

The weather here had been mostly dry of late, even though we are in the rainy season. It is considered winter now but we are having Indian summer, and it has been very pleasant. In Boquete about 114 inches of rain fall per year; rainfall exceeds 12 inches per month from May to November, while it drops below 4 inches per month from January to March. At altitudes above 6,500 feet, in the tierras frías (“cold lands”), nights can be cold, especially during the period from December to March. Above 10,000 feet, it can get cold even during the day. Where we live is around 3,900 feet or so above sea level. The temperature is perfect.

I cannot believe sometimes that we actually live here in this small piece of paradise. Hasta la próxima vez!

Pipeline Trail Hike

Today Craig and I went on one of the very popular hikes just outside the town of Boquete. Along with half a dozen or so other hikers, we took the trail along The Pipeline. You walk alongside a river through the jungle, as It winds through the cloud forest and passes through two micro-climates. It has various small wildlife, and is one of the best areas for the chance to see the very beautiful and colorful Quetzal. Although we did not see a quetzal today, another group on the trail who had a professional guide, did in fact see one. We learned that mating season between February and May is the best time to see them. We found the hike fairly easy, many of the others in our group being a bit older than us. The incline was gradual but a bit rocky. Since I broke my foot last December, I am very careful where I step, and watching where I step was first and foremost. There were some “iffy” bridges and water crossings, one being walking along wide metal pipes while holding on to a rail made of a branch. We did not make it all the way up to the waterfall today, but we shall return! The highlight of our hike was seeing a Glasswing butterfly, which has clear transparent wings, as well as the thousand-year-old tree. I was in awe of it. It was a great bunch of people hiking in easy pace enjoying the beauty that surrounded us.

There are various other trails, some easy and some that require a guide with steep terrain. We bumped into a guide along the way who does a Jeep 4×4 excursion to Volcán Barú, leaving at 3:45 AM, driving up 2 hours to see the sun rise, then 2 hours back down. I’m putting that one on my bucket list.

*Craig thought the bridge was for sissies, lol.*

Panamá City Visit

This week we spent a few days in Panamá City. We flew from David to Panamá City to complete our e-cédulas. David, the 3rd largest city in Panamá, is a 35 minute drive from Boquete. The flight is approximately 45 minutes, a real time saver and relatively inexpensive with a 20% jubilado discount. The drive would take you around 7 hours.

The e-cédula is an optional form of identification that provides an unique ID number which becomes the official proof of identity in Panamá. Permanent residents are not required to obtain the e-cédula; however, it is highly recommended. This is because the e-cédula card is an accepted proof of identity anywhere in Panamá, while the permanent residency card requires foreigners to carry their passport as a proof of ID. All Panamanians over the age of 18 are issued a cédula. The only difference between the cédula issued to those who are born in Panamá and those who become permanent residents, is the “e” on the card’s ID number, which stands for extranjero – foreigner in Spanish.

When you have an e-cédula card, you can do your day-to-day tasks more easily – whether it be cashing your checks or paying for public transport. When in Panamá, an e-cédula card is all you need to carry. See full article about important Panamá IDs (from our attorneys website), at https://kraemerlaw.com/en/articles/important-panama-ids-residency-card-e-cedula-drivers-license/

It’s not necessary for an attorney to accompany you, however we did have our bilingual driver/tour guide extraordinaire, Marc Vargas, drive us to the Tribunal Electoral in Albrook, Panamá City, and he helped us with any translation issues. After our files were reviewed, we paid the fee of $32.50 each (normally $65.00 but we get a 50% jubilado discount), then got our photos taken and also fingerprinted. In a week our e-cédulas will be mailed to us. Everything was done in less than 3 hours, which left us some time to explore which is always very enjoyable. This completes our process!

We are back home in Boquete, until our next adventure.

Today is Independence Day in the US, home of the free because of the brave. I remain grateful for our many freedoms in both my mother land and my newly adopted home of Panamá. Happy Independence Day!

Adjusting to a Less Stressful Life

I’ve not written in a while. It seems there has not been much to say of late. Life has become so simplistic.

Today, Craig and I attended a Meet & Greet cocktail / luncheon that was held at a local restaurant. Newcomers to the area as well as expats who have been here a while, met to share their friendship and knowledge. We talked with a lot of great people who we plan on getting together with in the future.

Having been retired now for half a year and Craig retired for over 2 months, we are slowly settling in. When we first arrived in Boquete, Panama in early May, it felt like “vacation mode”, checking out the town, the sights, tours, getting to know the local hangouts. Finding a rental and getting a car was a priority, as was getting our Panamanian drivers licenses. Having been used to the hustle and bustle of every day life in the United States, it has been quite an adjustment mentally. I wake up in the morning without an agenda, leisurely enjoying the wonderful Panamanian coffee we have here, and catching up with my emails and Facebook. An afternoon out entails going to the fruit and vegetable lady and stocking up, grocery store, and maybe stopping for a cocktail. This week we had a friend over for dinner. Filling out our time are video Spanish lessons with teacher and friend, Yaira Munoz; oh, and homework! Going for long walks and going to the gym are things we also like to do. We’ve been re-watching The Sopranos many evenings. There is only so much relaxing that one can do, though. What else is out there? At times I miss the creative part of my former occupation as a graphic designer, but not the sitting behind a desk for 8 hours a day. It wreaked havoc on my shoulders, elbows, wrists, neck and back, I no longer have those issues.

There has been an inner struggle from time to time, looking for that missing piece, and missing family back in the States. The transition has been challenging. I am so grateful to be able to make this journey with my husband and best friend. Retirement is not a destination, but a journey. I do not know what my missing piece is yet, but it cannot be rushed. For some people, the need to work after retirement becomes a necessity, for others, it provides structure, routine and purpose. I do not know where I fall in the grand scheme of things. Waking up in this beautiful country with breathtaking views of Baru and the surrounding mountains, I have to count my blessings every day. We’re starting to get into the rhythm of life without structure, life has become more of an improvisation. We look forward to what the future holds and thank God every day for our good health and for this opportunity and fresh chance at a new adventure.

Panamá Coffee

One of the highlights of living in the mountains of Volcán Barú is the coffee. It is one of life’s greatest pleasures. Panamá coffee will not disappoint. It’s the best I’ve ever had. This past week, we toured one of the local coffee farms, Finca Dos Jefes. Their coffee varieties, Cafés de la Luna, is grown, harvested, processed and roasted there. Their farming practices are based around the lunar calendar. It was very interesting indeed. It all starts off as a cherry on a tree.

Here are some of the facts I’ve learned about the subject. The simplest and most organic method of processing coffee is called dry process. … The coffee is laid on raised drying beds that allow air to circulate around the fruit. Another method is the washing process, which if not done ethically, can potentially damage the environment and water resources around it. Environmental regulations are not equally enforced, or do not exist at most coffee producing nations.

What makes Panamá coffee so good? The fertile conditions on the areas surrounding the Volcán Barú, regular rainfall and appropriate altitude are a key factor in the success of coffee production: The rich nutrients found in the volcanic soil, abundant moisture and cloud cover nourish the coffee plants producing high quality beans that develop a rich, deeper flavor. The environmental factors of Panamá is quite unique with mountainous regions and nutrient rich volcanic soil that together create numerous microclimates across the country. The winds blowing over the mountains from the north create a fine mist called bajareque that acts as a huge air conditioner slowing the ripening of coffee cherries and contributing, ultimately, to sweet and complex cups.

Panamá’s coffee industry is marginal, but the country has specialized in producing special coffees such as geisha, which is sold at record prices especially in Asia and Europe. Just recently, A U.S. coffee roasting company in San Francisco area, served up the pricey cups of coffee made from Elida Natural Geisha beans purchased in Panamá at a world record price of $803 per pound.

We’ve had the opportunity to taste coffee samplings from a handful of fincas. The jury is still out as we continue our Panamá coffee tastings, including Black Mountain and Kotowa. They are all so good!

Taking Everything In

Arriving in Boquete a little over 3 weeks ago, we are slowly getting acclimated to our new home. It has been quite an adjustment to say the least. Having arrived at the start of the rainy season, you can expect a bit of rain every day, some days can downpour for hours, other days just a short period or two. Everything is lush and green, the flowers really love it!

This week, my daughter Jess gave birth to a beautiful baby girl, Stella Louise. What a joyous occasion! It was difficult for me not being able to be there and share in their joy. Thank goodness for Skype and Google Hangouts, the next best thing to being there, until we can make a trip back to visit.

Our days are filled with taking walks, going into town to pick up groceries and necessities, having snacks and a cerveza or margarita at our new favorite bar & grill, Big Daddy’s, Spanish lessons, and relaxing. We also joined a local gym that has a pool, hot tub and saunas.

Every Tuesday we go to the Boquete Tuesday Market. It has a good selection of items including an assortment of food, medicinal items, fresh fruit and vegetables, souvenirs, and Panamanian handmade items. All the expats in the area seem to congregate there every week.

One cannot underestimate how much we rely on the basic necessities, such as water, electricity, and internet. It is pretty common for one of these 3 things to be out at any given time. I think this is our biggest adjustment. We have two water reserve tanks for when the city water goes out, but when the reserve tanks are low, water pressure is slim to none, and at times doesn’t give us enough hot water. We get our showers when the getting is good. Electricity can flicker on and off. We have not had any major disruptions thankfully. We have a propane tank for our hot water and cooking. We have figured out when to return the tank for a new one…an empty tank weighs 6.17 kilos. We have been using our luggage scale to weigh it so we don’t run out! The internet is another story. The first week or so that we were here, it went out at least 3 times a day, which made our VPN router get all messed up with numerous calls to Sabai Technology for technical support. This week we’ll drive into David and get a UPS battery backup for our electronics to hopefully lessen future issues.

We are getting to know our community and some locals. Everyone has been so welcoming. Hasta la próxima vez!

We Found a Rental Home

A few days after our arrival in Boquete, we found an open layout modern 2 bed, 1 bath home that we are renting in the Volcancito area, which is about 2 miles from Boquete. Our furnished rental is $625/month including internet, water and garbage, and washer and dryer. It is fenced and also has a small yard out back. There is also a reserve water tank for any water outages. The oven, stove, dryer and hot water are heated by propane gas. We have been picking up things little by little to make it a little homier, it is still a work in progress. This will be our home base while we do some discovering.

Our altitude is 3,938 feet, with Boquete being at 3,200 feet. The surrounding mountains rise 11,000 feet above sea level. On a clear day you can see Volcan Baru clearly, but much of the time it is in cloud cover.

We are finding that stores in Boquete are pricier as far as name brands from the US. Normal day to day things are also a bit pricy due to the high influx of expats living in this area. Getting your fruits and vegetables from roadside stands or from the back of pick up trucks will get you freshness at a very reasonable price. We’ve had some great fruit and are anxious to change our eating habits and get into a healthier lifestyle.

We drove into David today, which is about 30 minutes away, to check out some of the stores. Their prices are lower and they have an amazing array of department stores with whatever you need. We went into a Conway store today which is a 3 floor department store. Also the Do It Center has all your household and home improvement needs at good prices. While in David we had lunch at TGI Fridays. We wanted a good old fashioned cheeseburger, lol. It was delicious.

Boquete and Surrounding Highlands

After accomplishing all the administrative work in Panamá City, we hired a driver to take us to the western part of the country where we have decided to settle, at least for now. There are a large expat numbers here in the Boquete area where we can get help with learning how things work around here. The highlands are absolutely beautiful. Boquete means “hole” in Spanish. It is in a valley surrounded by mountains, including the highest point in Panamá, Volcán Barú.

The Volcán Barú is an active stratovolcano and the tallest mountain in Panama, at 3,475 metres high. It lies about 35 km off the border of Costa Rica in the province of Chiriqui. It is also the twelfth highest peak in Central America. Due to its height and the narrowness of the isthmus of Panama, it is possible to see both the Pacific Ocean and Caribbean Sea from Volcán Barú’s peak on a clear day.

There are all kinds of eco tours, hiking and bird watching here. There is also a plethora of coffee plantations which flourish here because of the altitude. The coffee is to die for! Every Tuesday morning, Boquete has an Open Market with plenty of people selling their wares, various fruits and vegetables that they have grown, a variety of homemade foods, as well as plants and herbs. We purchased 2 bags of delicious tomatoes for $1! The indigenous tribe in this area, the Ngöble-Buglé, also sell their hand made items.

Boquete has a lot of English speaking people…the area is a draw because of its spring like weather all year long. Right now is the start of the wet season and we have been having some rain every day now. This morning the sun is shining, but this afternoon more than likely will have a few hours of rain. In Boquete, over the course of the year, the temperature typically varies from 55° F to 75° F and is rarely below 53° F or above 78° F. Just from the short period of time we have spent here thus far, we are learning towards temperatures that are a little warmer than this. Of course it has its benefits. There is no need for heat or air conditioning here, saving lots of money in electric bills. There are so many micro-climates here. From what we have seen in town, most people wear long pants, and in the evening, they wear jackets.

A New Beginning in Panama

What a long strange trip it’s been … I can hardly believe that it’s actually happening. Many thanks to our family for sharing in our excitement with us, you all helped make a stressful time a little easier.

After having spent the last 5 days in Florida visiting Craig’s brothers, we took off from Miami this morning and arrived in Panama City 3 hours later, along with 2 pieces of checked luggage each and our carry-ons. This week we’re finalizing our visa paperwork. Tomorrow we’re off to our attorney’s office and to immigration to get our permanent residency visas.

We also have another day planned to get our drivers licenses. You can only drive for 90 days with your US license. Apparently this is quite a process. First we have an appointment at the US Embassy to get our US licenses notarized. Then we take the notarized documents to the Ministry of Foreign Affairs for certification. Followed by a trip to a lab to obtain proof of blood type, and then finally bring all these documents to a Sertracen Service Center to get our licenses.

On May 1st, the Panamanians celebrate Labor Day and businesses will be closed. We look forward to finding something fun and relaxing to do.

At the end of the week we’ll leave Panama City for the highlands of Boquete in western Panama, where we’ll look for a furnished rental and explore this lovely area.